Skip to content
When one thinks of Banarasi sarees, one can imagine regal silk, intricate weaves, and a legacy that’s been passed down through generations. A must-have in the closets of queens, brides, and lovers of timeless fashion, Banarasi sarees are more than just six yards of fabric; they are a symbol of India’s rich cultural heritage. With its luxurious feel and rich textures, the intricate weaves of Banarasi aren't just trendsetters but are timeless heirlooms that are passed down to generations. Whether it is the classy floral designs, the shining gold and silver zari brocade, or the opulent drape, a Banarasi saree has time-tested workmanship magic.
Being a timeless piece, a Banarasi saree has a rich history that started with the Mughal era. Travelling through history, it has today come to be known as an epitome of India’s heritage. So today, we’ll take you through its evolution and how it came to be considered as a work of art.
The Royal Legacy of Banarasi Weaves
The history of Banarasi sarees dates back to the Mughal era when the Persian and Indian aesthetics merged to create intricate brocades. Originating in the spiritual capital of India, Banaras (also known as Varanasi and Kashi), the weavers were encouraged to refine their brocade weaving techniques to give way to the current elaborate and sophisticated designs. Over the years, the influence of newer cultures that married into the old traditions found their way into the unique design language.
The brocades of Banaras revolve around its detailed motifs that define the very essence of this drape. Woven with immaculate artistry and nostalgic narratives, the culture of the land is mirrored in its fabric, resplendent motifs and rich hues. Drawing inspiration from the landscapes, the motifs that bring the brocades to life include Paan (Beetle leaf-shaped), Khanjari (Geometrical chevron pattern), Shikargara (Hunting scenes with flora and fauna), Jaal (Delicate net-like pattern filled with birds, flowers and geometric designs) and Shankha (Conch shell) amongst others.
These pure Banarasi sarees were once woven with real gold and silver threads, making them a mark of aristocracy and prestige. Even today, a pure Banarasi saree remains a symbol of grandeur, often passed down through generations as a cherished heirloom.
Intricate Craftsmanship & Artisanal Techniques
When it comes to Banarasi sarees, they are woven using an intricate mix of patterns and prints inspired by the traditional landscapes. Traditionally, the weaving was done with naksha draw looms, where hand-drawn designs are precisely translated onto graphing cardboard stencils, inch-wise through the process called "Likhai" by the artist known as "Nakshaband" which acts as a design blueprint while weaving.
The process usually takes weeks and even months to complete, and is often guarded by families of skilled artisans that have been honing the craft for generations. The motifs, inspired by architecture, nature, and traditional Indian art, are painstakingly woven into the fabric using the age-old handloom technique.
Distinctive Designs and Motifs
Banarasi sarees aren’t just created, they are woven out of patience, love, and respect for tradition. From Mughal-inspired motifs that provided the inspiration behind their designs to contemporary interpretations which make them today-relevant, these sarees are a statement of India's creative genius.
With opulent designs and intricate motifs, Banarasi sarees are known to be a trousseau treasure for every bride and bride-to-be. The patterns include flora and fauna, historical motifs and geometric patterns. The original zari work uses gold and silver threads that lends it a luxurious feel. The grandeur of the saree is evident in its common motifs like peacock, flowers, and paisleys, each telling a story and reflecting the rich cultural heritage of India.
Modern Adaptations of Traditional Weaves
The timeless charm of Banarasi saree continues to leave people in awe across the globe. With their timeless colour scheme, opulent designs and intricate motifs, these have long been known for their jewel toned colour schemes with intricate gold and silver threadwork. However now with the surge in the craft, the art is now going through a cultural reinterpretation. With a fresh colour palette, and vibrant hues are being used to complement the classic motifs. Additionally, the classic silk base is being replaced with lighter fabrics like georgette and chiffon that make the saree more comfortable and easy to carry.
Conclusion
The captivating Banarasi saree is much more than just a piece of clothing, it's a work of art that, whether work for a wedding, a festival, or a special occasion, is like wearing a piece of history. Investing in a Banarasi saree is not just about owning a garment; it’s about embracing a heritage that has flourished for centuries and will continue to do so for many more.
Author : Taniya Arora
