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A closer look at what makes these resplendent weaves from the south India a visual treat
India has long been a land of treasures, with a thick reservoir of gems, jewels, and traditions. But in a country that embraces colour as its calling card, weavers and textile specialists are spoiled for choice. The recipe isn’t new; in Indian philosophy, the creation of the universe is intricately linked to the interplay of the three Gunas: tamas (inertia), rajas (passion), and sattva (purity). Where red (rajas) signifies passion, white (sattva) symbolises purity, and black (tamas) hints at death and denial.
It is often said that the language of colour has the potential to mirror our innermost thoughts. It guides our actions and insights through everyday life, transforming simple perceptions into emotions. This understanding goes far beyond aesthetics; it becomes a powerful tool for self-expression and a window into the soul.
While people in fashion use patterns, cuts, techniques, and embroidery that demand a discerning eye to define beauty, colour transcends such barriers, acting as a universal language. Today, we delve deep into the colour psychology and beauty of Kanjivaram sarees to decipher the metaphors hidden so deeply in their luxurious drapes.
The weave that draws its name from a little town in Tamil Nadu has its yarns woven in gold-like threads made for the gods and goddesses alike. Kanchipuram, an important place of worship for South Indians, has always been linked to the spiritual and the divine, mirroring the rich cultural aura of the state. For similar reasons, colours have long been associated with auspiciousness, representing various social and religious elements, particularly when selecting Kanjivaram sarees for weddings and festive occasions.
Arakku or Red: The Colour Of Passion
In Hinduism, red holds great importance, radiating a spectrum of meanings that weave through various aspects of life. Deeply connected to Shakti (Goddess Durga), the feminine divine principle representing creative power, red embodies the sensuality and life force sustaining the universe. It signifies the kundalini energy, a spiritual force believed to lie dormant at the base of the spine. Its awakening evokes a transformative journey, propelling one towards spiritual growth and enlightenment.
In Tamil culture, 'Arakku' holds a special place. This distinctive colour, lying between red and maroon, symbolises the blossoming of pink into a deep red. Unique to Kanjivaram sarees, Arakku is a beloved choice for bridal ensembles, reflecting the rich traditions and culture of South-Indian weddings.
Pachai or Green: The colour of life
Green, symbolising life, fertility, and the natural world, weaves an essential thread through the realm of Kanjivaram sarees. Long before synthetic dyes arrived in Kanchipuram, weavers relied on natural elements to create this vibrant pigment, traditionally associated with new beginnings and the promise of abundant life. The origins of green, like many other colours, can be traced to the rich spices of Indian cuisine. For example, the soft pastel green of cardamom pods, known as Elakkai Pachai, though uncommon in Kanjivaram sarees, lends a beautiful shade to the drape. Similarly, Manthulir, a stunning shade of green shot with red, is derived from the leaves of the mango tree, which adds a unique and vibrant touch to this classic weave.
Beyond its prevalence in the natural world and our kitchens, the colour green holds a profound and spiritual significance in South Indian texts and literature. Ancient Tamil literature describes how the goddess Meenakshi, enshrined in the Madurai temple, wears a magnificent emerald green saree. This vibrant depiction inspires devotees to wear green when visiting the temple, deepening their spiritual connection and honouring the rich tradition.
Nīlam or Blue: The colour of the divine
Blue represents the vastness of the sky and ocean, symbolising infinity and the immeasurable. It embodies the divine's boundless nature, transcending human comprehension, and is often linked to gods. In Kanchipuram, vivid shades of blue permeate the natural world too. 'Mayil Kazuthu' (a specific shade of blue) draws inspiration from the bluish-green necks of peacocks that adorn the countryside, often inspiring the hues of the Kanjeevaram drapes.
Beyond nature, blue holds a special place in Carnatic music, thanks to singer Madurai Shanmukhavadivu Subbulakshmi. The unique 'MS blue' was created especially for her, making silk Kanjeevaram sarees in this shade her signature style, and a favourite among her followers.
Tantam or Ivory and Onyx: The colours of purity and protection
In the Mahabharata, Krishna, also known as Ghanshyam, derives his name from Shyama, the dark colour of storm clouds. This association with the colour black holds deep cultural significance in Indian tradition, where black is believed to protect against the evil eye. While you wouldn't see a black saree at a South Indian wedding, it appears during a woman's first pregnancy as a protector. During the "valai kappu" or “seemantham” ceremony, the mother-to-be is draped in a "masikkai," a black saree, to ward off any evil that might come her way or her baby.
White, on the other hand, basks in the light of purity and the divine. Unlike most of India, where red reigns supreme for brides, some Tamil traditions see white as the colour kissed by the divine. So, on their special day, brides wear Kanjivaram sarees, drenched in the purity of white with shimmering gold zari borders. These magnificent drapes are more than just a saree for the newlyweds; they are a whispered prayer, a connection to the divine, and a radiant start to a new chapter.
Author- Haiqa Siddiqui
