Ashavali - The ancient art of weaving brocades with enamelling

Ashavali sarees and dupattas are a style of weaving from Ahmedabad to which references are found as early as the 16th century. Believed by some to have influenced the brocade weaving of Banaras through the migration of Gujarati weavers, Ashavali textiles were made by Khatris and the Patels. They were primarily worn by the royalty and nobles. Ashawals were mostly worn as sarees, jamas and patkas and also used for canopies, and decorations for camels and elephants. Some even refer to the Ashawali weaving as pre Banaras.

Ashavali textiles are distinguished by the enameled or meenakari work on the borders and pallu. Besides brocades they were also woven with patola or tie-dye sarees and dupattas. The borders and pallus were woven using the interlocking technique. The pallu also displays designs like the badshah pallu (common to Baluchari sarees) and the chand-tara motifs or motifs like the parrot and peacock, some of which are found in other textile crafts from Gujarat like mocha embroidery, beadwork and jaliwork or the Paithanis from Maharashtra. The amalgamation of skills and craft cultures make them a desirable and prized possession