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India, one of the earliest civilizations the world has ever known, is a montage of rich heritage, profound history of monarchies and kingdoms, artisanal craft, exquisite architecture and diverse culture and languages. This has led to India being a reservoir of indigenous art, weaving, textiles and embroideries and to being a muse to the various connoisseurs of fashion and art from time immemorial. One such marvel is the Gota Patti embroidery. The Nayla village in Jaipur district and Shekhawati region of Rajasthan in India are considered to be the epicenter of this uniquely styled work and a pride for the womenfolk who handcraft it even to-day. Lappe ka kaam, Gota Patti and Gota Kinari are all synonyms to the venerated embroidery techniques that were also seen in some parts of Punjab of present-day Pakistan in the days of yore.
WHAT IS GOTTA PATTI?
‘Gota’ is a term used for a band of metallic ribbon, also called a lace which is usually gold or silver in color and sometimes even made of gold and silver threads specially during the ancient times. The lace is made up of metal coated weft yarn or cotton yarn. These laces are used for applique work on the base fabric to design leaves or ‘Patti’ and shapes like peacocks, florals or paisleys. This distinct kind of embroidery is centuries-old and was a prominent part of the prehistoric royals, and is relevant even today. It is a must-have for occasion wear in today's era where the designers have righteously interpreted it. WeaverStory has brought to you a beautiful gamut of such Saree whose blouses are made in gold and silver gota, inspired from the regal Mughals.
Our freshest collection is the ‘Mehrunisa’ which means a beautiful and faithful women. Run your fingers through these gems at ‘WeaverStory’.
ORIGIN OF GOTA PATTI
The origin dates back to the time when Mughal and Persian craftsmen came to India and that is when the Rajput royal artisans united with them to give birth to this incredible gem. Historically, these gota ribbons acted as embellishments and accessories for a plethora of fabrics and attires that were worn by the temple idols, priests, important members of the court and the royalty. These beautiful embellishments could be made on base fabrics like georgettes, chiffons, silks, satins and crepes. It was made out of pure gold and silver which enhanced and defined their luxury clothing and status in the society. Soon it became a ubiquitous type of craft on every garment that was made for the Nawabs, their Begums, Mughals and Rajputs.
The expensive metallic work and its intricacy was considered elegant and royal and was exclusive to them for a very long time. As a part of a bridal trousseau too, these art pieces used to be the heirlooms passed down by the Ranis and Begums.
USE OF GOTA PATTI
Eventually, this gold lace got replaced by gilt and lurex making it accessible to masses. Today one can see a variety of this craft on Sarees , lehengas, suits, dupattas, blouses while adding an appealing factor to the garment. Moreover, the royal costumes worn by Deepika Padukone in the film Padmavat and Aishwarya Rai in Jodha Akbar reflects some of the opulence and grandeur of the ‘lappe ka kaam’ and shows the larger than life era so beautifully. Some of the most used Gotta types are Lappa Gotta or a twill woven tape, Thappa Gotta or a heat set tape, Phool Lappa, Bijiya, Kiran, Mothda and Gokhru or a crimped tape.
HOW IS GOTA PATTI CRAFT MADE ?
The process of crafting this work includes tracing the design on the base fabric, cutting and folding the gotta in diamond shaped leaves or other motifs which are then appliquéd over the fabric using back stitches. This interlaced work of art has been extensively used for curating Dupatta look on bridal wears in South Asia too. It is typically done on Dupattas, Turban edges, Torans, juttis and hemlines of Ghagras. It can be twisted and crimped to make beautiful motifs and designs. This type of fabric embellishment is similar to Aari Tari of Kashmir and Kutch and Zardozi embroideries of Lucknow.
The usage of machines instead of hand embroidery is slowly stealing away the real grace of this craft and is affecting the legacy of the seasoned craftsmen. A lot of substitutes are also available in the market now, to give the golden and silver effect of Gotta. This has made this art more affordable and it doesn’t tarnish with time. Amidst all the glitzy gaudiness and shimmer in the apparel industry, the magnificence of this ancient craft still stands out and it continues to breathe in this golden land of history and culture specially by the designers of India who are constantly reviving this ancient art of India.
WeaverStory celebrates this craft and has endeavored to inculcate in its designs. Be it the blouses , lehengas, dupattas or Sarees , our artisans have aced this technique with a modern twist. Shop our gota embellished range at WeaverStory.
